Valentine’s Day, February 14, 2010

Vulnerable. Isn’t that what love is all about?

Or maybe isn’t that what life is all about? That is how Bob felt last Sunday when he slept late after having a late dinner the night and then decided to ride by himself, got lost, off the only map that he had with him, and with a phone that needed to be recharged. Again today that is how Bob felt t when he decided to ride with his bike club, fell behind, took the wrong turn, and got left in the dust. Sometimes one feels vulnerable all by oneself. Sometimes with others.

Speaking of vulnerability, the last two weeks have been filled with discussions about 2010 to 2011. If we stay, we want to find another place to stay because we are ready to create more of our own home here if we are going to be returning on a regular basis. Also, our landlady wants the higher rents she can get in the summer so she doesn't want to rent to us nonstop.

We accomplished what we came to do: we are now speaking French to each other at dinner! We are more integrated in Montpellier than most of the French, we are told by others. Our question is: do we want more out of our relationship with France than the gift of these two years?

Each day brings the chance to explore something new as we walk under cold clear blue skies to about one event a day  For example, I went on a guided tour of an exhibit by Raoux at the Fabree Museum. His paintings such as Orpheus and Eurydice loaned by the Getty in Los Angeles are much too precious for me,  but I loved the companionship of my friends as well as the opportunity to listen to the guide’s French. One always picks up a few interesting points. For example, did you know that at the time of Raoux the flowers in women’s bodices and hair were dunked in perfume to hide their body odor? That their sleeves were removable because they used them as napkins and Kleenex?

We explore through film as well as art. The French film club Jean Villon watches and then discusses a film biweekly about a 15 minutes walk from here. Their red cloth padded chairs envelope you like a bed so it is important to sit where it is cool, not in the upper rows. The French have the highest per capita movie attendance of any country in the world and their state-subsidized films win many awards. It is an honor to learn from them.

We watch films in English too. For example, if you haven’t read the book on which "Invictus" is based, do so. We saw the film last week complete with French subtitles and were so glad for the background in the book on which the film is based, “Playing the Enemy.”

Art, film…and, lets see, oh yes,  we also distract ourselves plays like “The Maltournee” at La Jetee, 12 rue Mayrueis. Bob and I did not understand a single whole sentence but we spent the evening with a wonderful group of about 15 French men and women!

Art, film, plays and, oh yes, photography. I love the pictures Bob took on a trip with his film club to the local zoo.

Art, film, plays, photography, and of course, food. We went out for a Valentine’s Day lunch Friday at La Grange, 30 Rue JJ Rousseau, chosen because it is tiny, funky ad recommended for 5 years in a row by Routard. Bob’s mushroom covered chicken was delicious as was the still warm Italian cake. Most of all, the male owner charmed us by winking each time he walked past and pouring us three free digestifs at the end of the meal.

Day to day conversations mean the most. Who would have guessed that the man who sells me the newspaper would be the one to tell me about the 51 inches of snow in Washington DC? Or that the man who owns the patisserie is studying Japanese one night a week and dreams of opening a patisserie in Japan?  Gilda is now teaching me French through poetry and song. I LOVE IT! Bob has to listen to me singing in French at the top of my voice and Gilda and I sing together at the end of each lesson. So restorative.

Aren’t we lucky?